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Our Favorite Moments From London Fashion Week FW25

info@hypebae.com (Hypebae)  Tue, 25 Feb 2025  Hypebae

The Fall/Winter 2025 season of London Fashion Week is officially over and in the last few days, we've already been treated to several emerging designers to know, celebrity runway moments and unique brand collaborations. The season started off strong with a masterclass in couture from Harris Reed, followed by Daniel Fletcher's MITHRIDATE debut and a return to the runway from Mia Khalifa and Di Petsa.

Next up, we immersed ourselves in Dreaming Eli's femme-forward showcase, along with an outdoor runway for Abigail Ajobi and a three-part show courtesy of FASHION EAST. We've since been treated to Sinead O'Dwyer, Chet Lo and Simone Rocha -- not forgetting the closing show from Burberry still to come.

Continue reading to learn more about the best shows and collections this season, and stay tuned for more fashion week coverage coming soon from Milan.

Harris Reed's Gilded Glamor

london fashion week runway dreaming eli harris reed gowns women bodies sheer fabric chet lo tolu coker richard quinn kazna asker converse labrumIf Harris Reed's FW25 show had a mantra, "Be loud" would be it. Florence Pugh opened the show with a monologue about being unapologetic, making noise and taking up space, which was then followed by a moving lineup of pieces embodying that very same energy. Staged at the Tate Britain, the collection was inspired by the luxury British lighting and furniture brand Porta Romana. Reed’s garments were more like architectural structures and sculptural pieces than garments, but all the better for it.

Crinoline cages, corsets and breastplates; the "Guilded" collection had it all. Porta Romana's signature Urchin chandelier was transformed into dramatic dresses, rendered in flexible resin and hand-painted in decadent gold or electric blue. Larger-than-life lashes added to the drama, too. If the string quartet didn't get you, the cheers from the adoring crowd of fans cheering on the Nina Ricci creative director would have. Among them, were London Mayor Sadiq Khan, Michéle Lamy, Alisha Boe, Gideon Adlon, Tsunaina, Raul and Grace Carter.

Daniel Fletcher's MITHRIDATE Debut

london fashion week runway dreaming eli harris reed gowns women bodies sheer fabric chet lo tolu coker richard quinn kazna asker converse labrumAfter Fletcher left Fiorucci in 2023, all eyes were on his next move. Luckily for us, that next move took place during this season of LFW, where the lauded designer presented his debut collection for the London-based label MITHRIDATE. Merging its Chinese heritage with British craftsmanship, the designer's debut brought elements of the quintessentially British wardrobe into the future, showcased through contemporary silhouettes and a clashing juxtaposition. Presenting a slew of well-tailored silhouettes with a twist, the confident showcase put MITHRIDATE well and truly back on our radar.

Dreaming Eli's Heart and Ribs

london fashion week runway dreaming eli harris reed gowns women bodies sheer fabric chet lo tolu coker richard quinn kazna asker converse labrumDreaming Eli took us on a journey "between the heart and ribs" this season, presenting its Fall/Winter 2025 collection through an immersive presentation exploring themes of "flesh, bone and emotion." Celebrating the female body in all its forms, the powerful collection reimagined "a woman who has walked through fire, emerged from the trauma, and claimed her body as her own." Through body-skimming silhouettes, sheer layers and sensual designs, the collection evoked a sense of empowerment and freedom -- encouraging us to "embrace the storm that resides within."

Showcased through tactile fabrics, dyed lace and delicate detailing, the collection also utilized Shibori techniques to create constricted silhouettes, toying with the idea of bondage and the concept of "skin being bound and released." This season also marked Dreaming Eli's knitwear debut, arriving with torn detailing and literal red threads.

Richard Quinn's Fall/Winter Wonderland

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Richard Quinn's FW25 collection was a tribute to life's special moments, the elegance of dressing up and the deep connection between clothing and memories. This concept materialized through occasion wear motifs such as rosettes and shoulder-high gloves alongside modern bridal gowns.  Snow fell from the venue's ceiling onto a carefully crafted depiction of London in a winter's dusk as models paraded through the powder in ultra-feminine and at times Bridgerton-esque, gowns. The British label's signature floral maxi dresses were complemented by voluminous yet fitted bodices and ranged from pale yellow to jet black hues. 

Labrum's Celebration of Black British Excellence

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Labrum took to LFW with a presentation format this season, fusing the traditional runway setting with a slew of performances by Black British talent. Featuring everyone from Akala to Wretch 32, the powerful showcase reminded us of the importance of community and culture, celebrating what it means to be an immigrant in the UK. Held at the iconic Abbey Road Studios, the presentation featured poignant speeches, a star-studded guest list and of course: impeccable tailoring.

Chet Lo's Reclamation of Asian Art

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For far too long, the West has distorted and diluted Asian art, shaping it through a colonialist lens. However, with Chet Lo's FW25 collection, the designer takes it back -- deconstructing these misinterpretations and reclaiming the narrative on his own terms.

Titled, "Modern Antiquity," Lo reimagines traditional Asian iconography -- tiger stripes, swirling cloud motifs and delicate florals -- by warping, distorting and reshaping them into something entirely new. His signature textures take center stage, with 3D merino wool spikes, intricate pleating and textural contrasts adding depth and dimension to every look. The show also marked the debut of Lo's upcoming collaboration with Converse, set to launch later this year.

TOGA's Fur And Footwear

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TOGA's FW25 collection titled "Formal, Informal, Anti-formal" was a rebellion against tradition. Inspired by American photographer William Eggleston, creative director Yasuko Furuta dismantled and reassembled formal attire to meet the needs and symbols of modern femininity. The Japanese label reunited with its ring micro skirt in a brown-hued tweed alongside enlarged collared shirts and capes. Fur was seen encasing bags, hats and large outerwear styled with thick belts and long necklaces. TOGA's FW25 footwear ranged from cherry red flats to studded black boots. We also peeped a partnership with ASICS and will eagerly await a potential launch later this year.

Tolu Coker's Atelier Presentation

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Rising designer Tolu Coker stepped away from the traditional runway format this season, for a presentation that explored the intersection of spirituality, community and identity. Titled "ORI -- Upon Reflection," the collection took inspiration from Yoruba spirituality and its diasporic migration. Transporting guests through a makeshift atelier, the presentation looked at garments as memories. "Clothes are not simply garments - they are archives of memory, carriers of culture, and markers of identity. To wear is to honour the past, embrace the present, and shape the future," Coker shared in a press release. Coupled with retro-inspired prints, Hollywood glamor-inspired makeup and the designer's signature sculptural silhouettes, the presentation offered an immersive experience like no other.

Kazna Asker's Celebration of Family Heritage

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Kazna Asker's FW25 collection brought a breath of fresh air to LFW. Titled, "Family," Asker quite literally made her presentation a family affair. Inspired by her parent's migration to the UK, local charities and libraries across the UK along with Yemeni-owned corner shops that shaped her upbringing, guests stepped into a scene that felt more like a cherished family gathering than a fashion presentation. Market stalls brimmed with familiar comforts, trays of steaming tea and sweet dates made their way through the crowd and the rhythmic beat of drums set the tone. The atmosphere was rich with warmth, tradition and a deep sense of belonging.

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