Alessandro Michele's Valentino Debut Celebrates Beauty in Excess

All eyes were on Alessandro Michele this season, as the lauded designer made his Valentino debut at Paris Fashion Week. After a lengthy reign at Gucci, Michele had a lot to prove, convincing fashion fans and industry folk that his signature designs could be translated into a different aesthetic.

For his first collection, the designer posed the question: "What is beauty anyway?" followed by an 85-look runway show that looked to redefine the answer once and for all. Opulence, grandeur and excess are the words that came to mind following the extravagant showcase, one that felt incredibly different from seasons prior.

Read on for Hypebae's review of Valentino SS25.

 

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WHO: Celebrity guests included Michele's biggest supporter Harry Styles, alongside Jared Leto, Hari Nef, Elton John and Florence Welch.

WHERE: Held at the Porte de Chatillon, on Paris' southern outskirts, the show transported guests to an underground venue filled with cracked glass flooring, glowing lights and a smoky atmosphere.

SEE: Extravagance underpinned the collection, presenting a slew of embroidered gowns, embellished tops and layered ruffles. Models walked down the runway with oversized costume-style jewelry, head coverings, large hats and mirrored sunglasses, while beauty looks saw chain detailing appear as nose rings and lip accessories. A jewel-toned color palette of purple, forest green, baby pink and red and gold was showcased, created through clashing prints, lots of layering and lace accessories.

TOUCH: Tactility sat at the heart of Valentino SS25, with every detail destined for touch. Glittering embellishments, lace tights and gloves, dangling chains and sheer, swishing ruffles sashayed down the runway, with excessive layering adding to the clashing textures.

HEAR: Regal, 1950s-inspired sounds filled the air, with dramatic, opera-like choruses soundtracking the already opulent showcase, adding to the drama.

TASTE: The SS25 collection quite clearly took cues from the past, specifically the era of the hedonistic '50s. Excess was key, as was oversized jewelry, strings of pearls and enormous hats. In this case, less was far from more.

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