16Arlington FW24 Questions: What Makes a Monster?

Creative director Marco Capaldo presented the Fall/Winter 2024 collection for 16Arlington at London Fashion Week, exploring the concept of monstrosities and what creates them. "Is it their physical freakishness? Is it their bloodlust? Or is it their status as something other than human, something abject, unnatural? Is a monster born, or are they made?" questions this season's show notes.

For FW24, Capaldo presents a "house of horrors" inspired by writer and curator Charlie Fox and his exhibition "My Head Is a Haunted House," fusing visuals of Frankenstein, Winona Ryder in Beetlejuice and Twin Peaks' infamous Black Lodge. "Meeting Charlie and Sadie and hearing about their work together, I fell in love with the beauty of the monstrous, explains Capaldo, adding that "Sometimes darkness has more depth than light."

Taking place at the Barbican's Curve gallery, the collection showcased a slew of eerie models dressed in deep black gowns, interspersed with "slippery organza" and "skin-like croc." Aiming to confuse and contrast, FW24 merged the concepts of the "refined" and the "untamed," transitioning between delicate knits and tailoring and animalistic patterns.

"It’s not about Halloween – it's about human nature, adds Capaldo. "Hence the title of the show, borrowed, of course, from Madonna. Those who go against conventions are often ostracised, but there’s so much strength and power and beauty in rejecting norms. These are the people I design for."

Take a closer look at the collection above and while you're here, check out Chet Lo's FW24.

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