David Koma's Blumarine Debut Is An Ode To The Femininities of Italian Cinema

David Koma unveiled his much anticipated debut show for Blumarine with a smoldering Fall/Winter 2025 collection at Milan Fashion Week. After teasing us with his vision for the brand in a Pre-Fall 2025 campaign, the designer presented a no holds barred blend of romanticism, darkness and sophistication for FW25.

To begin his ideation around the inaugural collection for the brand, Koma first looked to Milanese culture, style and film. "I was inspired by Italian actresses, which really helped me to create this imaginary muse," he tells us. "On screen and off screen, they represent beauty and iconic elegance. They have this darkness and lightness and I feel this really resonated with Blumarine [as I see it]. I trusted my instincts and made sure that my team was happy. When it's like that, you have a result."

Koma used a black floral called the Sicilian thistle as a proverbial motif to set the stage for an emotional, assertive and multi-dimensional collection. In this cinematic fantasy, inspired by Italian heroines, the color palette dripped in jet black, blood red and deep grey. Despite the darkness, the Blumarine collection was anything but somber. Traditional florals were reinterpreted as a metal adornment in the form of bralettes and belt buckles while the brand's signature butterfly graced black underwear comprised of diamante-crystals.

For outerwear, we saw shearling-trimmed coats and corset-inspired jackets with madonna necklines, paired with tailored trousers. Chantilly lace-bonded bustiers, leather mini-dresses and a two-piece denim set enhanced the collection, while shearling textures brought contrast to refined silhouettes. The garments were complemented by footwear ranging from knee-high boots and sling-backs to leather pump sandals with flower embellishments.

As for accessories, Blumarine introduced a fresh take on its Kiss Me bag, flipping the lip shape into a sleek messenger style in leather and zebra-print cow hair. The collection includes evening bags with metallic rose pendants, butterfly-shaped designs with eyelets and toy bags featuring thistle-shaped metal handles.

Koma enforced a new elegance and determination into the Blumarine brand and consequentially, its muses. In his words, "the Blumarine woman is happy, confident and knows what she wants."

For more MFW news, checkout what went down at the FW25 Diesel show.

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