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Moschino SS25 Was a "Piece of Sheet"

info@hypebae.com (Hypebae)  Fri, 20 Sep 2024  Hypebae

The Spring/Summer 2025 womenswear collection from Moschino technically marks creative director Adrian Appiolaza's third runway show; his second womenswear collection after a well-received menswear show in June. But in a way, it is his first full women's show, having taken over from the late Davide Renne for AW24 just weeks before the show.

Still, Appiolaza has proven that he can infuse the brand with a playful, lighthearted charm, matching its camp and surrealist flair while maintaining a sense of humor and respecting the codes of the Italian luxury house. Since his arrival, he's fully immersed himself in the spirit of Moschino's founder, Franco Moschino, and it's clear in every detail of his work.

While his predecessor, Jeremy Scott spent a decade amplifying Moschino's theatrical side -- transforming nearly every garment and accessory into a whimsical work of art, Appiolaza has taken a different route. He's brought the brand back to the Ready-to-Wear market, making Moschino more accessible and wearable without losing its signature wit and creativity. Take for instance, the collection's name.

Dubbed "Piece of Sheet," Moschino turned the mundane more imaginative versions of themselves. "The everyday is sublimated, the ordinary made extraordinary, our perspective altered. Household items and everyday dress become subjects of obsession," as said in the show notes.

Scroll down further to read our full review.

Moschino, SS25, Milan Fashion Week, Runway, Collections, Alex Consani

WHERE: The show was staged in a vast, open room reminiscent of a laundry line, with crisp white sheets billowing overhead. It felt like stepping back into childhood, recalling moments of helping parents hang laundry -- only here, the clothes are so oversized they resemble floating linens. This larger-than-life concept echoed throughout the collection itself, where several pieces captured that same sense of exaggeration in playful proportions.

WHO: Who better to make an early runway entrance than model of the year, Alex Consani? Consani stole the spotlight, debuting a playful Moschino twist on a Clorox bleach bottle, cleverly reimagined as a handbag. The accessory was a nod to the white sheet dress she wore, seamlessly tying together the collection's theme of whimsical nostalgia with Moschino's signature humor.

Moschino, SS25, Milan Fashion Week, Runway, Collections, Alex Consani

SEE: As mentioned, Appiolaza continues to delve into Franco Moschino's archive, even drawing from his childhood chalk sketches, which were cleverly reproduced as "Graffito" on sleek, black cotton tailoring. Among the standout pieces was a timeless black "Tubino" (or "Sheath" dress in English,) seamlessly blended with printed silk housecoats. One of the collection's most playful looks featured a white "Tubino" with the words "TUBINO OR NOT TUBINO" printed across the front. The ensemble was accessorized with mismatched black-and-white polka dot leather gloves, a matching polka dot headscarf and white heels dotted in black. The model completed the look with a newspaper and a chic black clutch, evoking a tongue-in-cheek take on the traditional housewife -- a perfect example of Moschino's ability to make the ordinary feel extraordinary.

Plus, deconstructed flannel ensembles added a rebellious, punk edge to classy tailoring, while other garments were crafted from pillowcases, embroidery samples and even shoelaces, blending whimsy with high fashion in true Moschino style.

TOUCH: Think leathers, denim, tassels and even spikes juxtaposed with clean and neat tailored pieces.

TASTE: Prints are so back but don't be afraid to pair dots, stripes and checkered prints together!

Click the gallery to check out some of the runway pieces.

In other fashion news, read about our favorite runway collaborations from SS25.

Click here to view full gallery at Hypebae