Unpacking the Rise and Return of Our Aunties' Mesh Slippers
info@hypebae.com (Hypebae) Mon, 22 Jul 2024 Hypebae
Our aunties' mesh slippers are officially fashun. Yep, that's right. An item from our childhoods is once again a surprising addition to this year's fashion trend cycle. Though many have differing opinions of the humble mesh slipper's origins, one thing appears to ring true globally: it's been the shoe of choice for many immigrant aunts and mothers for decades.
Head of the Design History programme at the Royal College of Art, Dr. Sarah Cheang, explains: "Slippers have been worn in China for over 6,000 years, but East Asian cultures and peoples have moved around and fashions have been borrowed and exchanged. The indoor slipper is still central to Japanese life and social etiquette, and many other East Asian, South Asian and Southeast Asian cultures use highly decorated slippers."
View this post on Instagram
She adds, "As a fashion garment, the kind of mesh slipper that is popular now reminds me strongly of the Chinese/Malay fashions of Singapore and Malaysia. The indoor 'Chinese slipper' made from velvet, with Chinese beaded embroidery decorations such as dragons and flowers, was available in the late twentieth century, but they didn't transfer into outdoor use because of the thin cloth soles."
Going back centuries in Chinese and Korean garment history, Dr. Cheang notes that mesh fabrics were often used on robes, hats and footwear to deal with the intense heat, while still retaining the modest approach to dressing that is synonymous with Asian cultures. Naturally, the original design has evolved a great deal since then.
"The popular designs now draw more directly from the twentieth-century practicality of more durable materials for footwear combined with overtones of twentieth-century chinoiserie, plus a playful transparency that allows the toes to be both covered and seen," she notes.
View this post on Instagram
Fashion and Costume Historian Shelby Ivie Christie also nods to the fact that the majority of today's fashion trends do tend to have origins in Black and Brown communities, too -- often without proper acknowledgment or credit. "I've observed how staples from African American beauty supply stores, such as gold hoops, $1 lip gloss, and hair accessories, have long enabled Black and Brown women to express their style and personality affordably and accessibly," she explains.
"The rise of 'Chinese' mesh slippers fits into this narrative. Much like these staples, these slippers have become another victim of cultural appropriation and the pop culture tax, echoing the gentrification seen with pieces like the white low-top Air Force Ones. Their resurgence in popularity is a testament to how mainstream culture often co-opts and commercializes elements from marginalized communities without recognizing their cultural significance or origins."
As Christie notes, the slippers are officially a part of mainstream culture, with a few brands to thank for that. A few years ago, Bottega Veneta's mesh pump made its debut. Not long after, The Row's mesh ballet flat was born and a little after that, Alaia's chic, black mesh shoe became one of Lyst's hottest items of the year in 2023 and again in 2024. Since the luxury labels and sought-after designers began releasing their highly-priced pairs, several emerging labels and high-street brands have entered the chat. Now, the mesh slipper or ballet flat is available from brands like Mango and Arket, along with rising labels like Nodaleto.
View this post on Instagram
So when exactly did the mesh slippers of our aunties' eras come back around, and why? Dr. Cheang cites "books like Chinatown Pretty, or the work of AI artist Niceaunties," which "reflect an interest in Asian grannies and aunties as subversive or ironic style icons and cultural stereotypes that also provide inspiration for younger generations."
She adds, "What interests me about it is another recent trend that re-appraises the style choices of older Asian women. For many Chinese people, especially perhaps in the Chinese diaspora, slippers like these are full of love and nostalgia for our grandmothers."
The rise can also be attributed to a growing affinity with mesh textures and sheer fabrics. It's something we spotted on the runways of Spring/Summer 2024 fashion shows, so it makes perfect sense that this affinity would eventually translate into our footwear choices too.
View this post on Instagram
Speaking about the inspiration behind its SS24 Flower Mesh collection, founder Julia Nodaleto said: "Reimagined mesh beaded sandals embracing a nostalgic reference, paying homage to these mischievous yet cherished shoes of yesteryears. As we were making notes for our research for this capsule collection, I stumbled upon this photograph of my younger self wearing the popular beaded mesh sandals, which were forbidden for me to wear by my mother at the time. A family acquaintance (Jacquie) had slipped them to me in secret without my mother knowing. It was evidence of a shared sentiment, this dance of memories and nostalgia, that ignited the spark of inspiration for this SS24 HS Capsule Collection."
View this post on Instagram
Similarly, Turkish designer and founder of Siedres, Ceylin Turkkan Bilge, speaks about her brand's recent collaboration with Mango, which included a single pair of green mesh slippers with beaded accents. "The green beaded mesh slippers are all about bringing effortless cool to everyday wear. We took inspiration from the breezy, laid-back vibes of summer, merging comfort with a bold, edgy style. The airy mesh gives them that light, barely-there feel while adding a contemporary twist. They're the perfect blend of casual chic, designed to make a statement whether you're chilling at home or out and about."
So whether it's the easy-breezy nature of mesh that's perfect for summer styling, the undeniable inspiration that our aunties provide or (as always) our love for nostalgia, there are a few reasons why mesh slippers are back on the menu this season and truthfully, it's no bad thing -- as long as we always remember where they came from.
Click here to view full gallery at Hypebae
