Everything You Need To Know About New York Fashion Week FW25
info@hypebae.com (Hypebae) Wed, 12 Feb 2025 HypebaeNew York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2025 kicked off on February 6, showcasing sustainability, inclusivity and innovative takes on uniform dressing. Now that it's officially come to an end, we're recapping some of the biggest highlights of the season, including Collina Strada's "Fempire" showcase, Jane Wade's continued exploration into futuristic workwear, Veronica Leoni's debut runway for Calvin Klein and a new era of Sandy Liang.
Whether it's Hillary Taymour of Collina Strada reclaiming identities once marginalized through a playful, childlike and nostalgic lens, Jane Wade dissecting corporate culture to merge technology, business and individuality, or Sandy Liang transforming the girlhood era into a sophisticated, grown-up narrative, these collections reshape familiar themes and mutate them into something entirely unexpected.
Scroll down to read about all of our favorite moments from NYFW and stay tuned for the start of London Fashion Week.
While you're here, check out our recap of Berlin Fashion Week FW25.
Collina Strada Wanted You to "Be the Star That You Are"![New York Fashion Week runway collina strada disabled model lisa rinna kendall jenner](https://bae.hypebeast.com/files/2025/02/07/new-york-fashion-week-fall-winter-2025-runway-collina-strada-jane-wade-1.jpg)
Collina Strada's FW25 show "Fempire," was a vibrant celebration of femininity in all its forms -- honoring the legacy of the women who came before us while embracing the ones we are. With the brand's continued commitment to sustainability, Taymour sourced heirloom wedding dresses from New Jersey thrift shops, deconstructing and reimagining them with the unmistakable Collina Strada touch. Stripped down and rebuilt, these garments emerged as ethereal pieces -- delicate yet powerful.
Taymour's vision embraced inclusivity and radical self-expression, weaving together femininity, queerness and disability -- identities long marginalized but reclaimed with strength and pride. The runway was graced by Aaron Rose Philip and Hari Nef who are familiar faces in the Collina Strada universe and embody the brand's ethos of representation and unapologetic authenticity.
Lisa Rinna Was The Boss of Jane Wade's "MERGER"
Jane Wade's FW25 "THE MERGER" reimagined corporate culture as fashion performance, reflecting how technology is reshaping the modern workplace. This isn't entirely new for the brand, as its FW24 show, "Out of Office," showcased gorpcore corpcore influences, reflecting an era where constant connectivity and obsession with productivity have become the norm. However, for its FW25 show, the runway became an immersive set, blending live footage with streamed content to mirror the hybrid work experience.
From hierarchy-driven office dynamics to evolving executive dress, the brand fused traditional tailoring, high-end sophistication and sexy office-core aesthetics in its pieces. PopSocket accessories gave smartphones a luxury fashion touch, while the use of Nike's Air Superfly sneakers combined its sporty aesthetics with traditional workplace professionalism. Even Olipop -- the health drink of choice for corporate workers, was embedded into the designs, blurring branding with lifestyle.
Jane Wade transformed the corporate world into a theatrical space where business, technology and identity merge as one.
Gabe Gordon Delivered a Twisted Tale of Love, Betrayal and Rubber Dolls
Since Gabe Gordon's debut runway for Spring/Summer 2025, the designer consistently crafts a fictitious narrative with each collection. Last season's show, "HORSEPLAY," drew inspiration from an '80s horror fantasy, immersing the audience in a surreal fever dream.
This time, the brand's FW25 show "Rubber Boyfriend," once again revisits the '80s. It sets the scene in a high school where an obsessive dance coach turns betrayal into a twisted ritual. "After catching a teammate's boyfriend cheating, she plots to kidnap the wrestling team and transform them into living rubber dolls," explains the press release. Gabe Gordon delves into themes of homoeroticism, vulnerability and masculinity through a mix of ra-ra skirts, latex knee-high socks and gym-ready adidas Taekwondo shoes. The models were transformed into dolls with rubber-like lips, wigs and bold eye makeup, enhancing the unsettling effect of the collection.
Veronica Leoni Resurrected Calvin Klein's Design Legacy
Calvin Klein's FW25 runway marked the debut of Veronica Leoni, the brand's first female creative director. While Leoni may be unfamiliar to many, her extensive experience spans minimalist fashion houses like Jil Sander (under Jil Sander), Céline with Phoebe Philo and The Row. She also launched her own brand Quira, in 2020, earning her a spot as a finalist for the LVMH Prize in 2023.
Through this collection, it's clear the Rome-born designer picked up where Calvin Klein himself left off in 2003. Her career -- and this collection -- showcases her sharp eye for modernity and a fresh approach to day-to-night dressing, which resonates with the stereotypical New York lifestyle. The collection's expertly draped coats, sharp suiting and minimalist silhouettes evoke the timeless simplicity Klein championed and a style that the brand's original muse, Kate Moss would likely still defend. The show saw an impressive guest list, including Calvin Klein himself, Kate Moss and Kendall Jenner -- a longtime brand ambassador, walking the runway.
Kim Shui Redefined Chinese Heritage with a Western Twist
Kim Shui's FW25 show was a sultry clash of cultures, seamlessly weaving together her Chinese heritage and Western influences. Set in a grand ballroom, the collection played with contrasts -- delicate lace and intricate embroidery met faux fur and dramatic fringing. Accessories like bra-style utility pouches and bolo tie necklaces reinterpreted traditional symbols with a modern-glam twist. Even pleather took on a new life; its rigid structure was softened through laser-cut details, transforming into sheer, fringed and draped silhouettes. Cowboy hats, Qi Pao collars and snake motifs -- like the animal's print tied the collection together -- a fitting nod to the Lunar New Year and the Year of the Snake. Vibrant, daring and undeniably glamorous, the show was a celebration of power, transformation and Shui's signature East-meets-West aesthetic.
Sandy Liang Channeled Grandmacore
Wake up, a new era of Sandy Liang just dropped. The brand always draws from nostalgic girlhood and its FW25 collection stays true to that, but with a twist. Instead of the innocence of youth, the pieces feel like they've been pulled straight from your grandmother's closet, adding a more mature, vintage-inspired touch.
Seen on the runway were metallic skirts, pops of lime green and cobalt blue, vibrant brooches, neatly tailored blouses, soft pink grandma sweaters and knee-length skirts. The collection reflects a subtle evolution, much like Miuccia Prada's approach -- where girlhood, femininity and womanhood intertwine, constantly shifting and redefining themselves.
Coach Delivered Its Charm-Filled Vision to the Runway
Coach's FW25 show brought its signature playful energy to New York's Upper East Side, seamlessly translating the youthful charm of its fun bags (bag charms included) onto the runway. The collection was packed with bright pops of color, trendy silhouettes and plenty of statement accessories. Pieces like ultra-cropped jackets and tops popped collars and low-waisted, baggy trousers were paired effortlessly with teddy bear bags and even charm-adorned trainers. Dresses layered over trousers added an androgynous twist, while even the earrings carried the same whimsical spirit.
According to the brand's creative director, Stuart Vevers, the goal was to "ground the collection in all the things that make Coach distinct as a fashion house. "There's a clear, cohesive idea in terms of materials, silhouette and styling. That comes from knowing who we are and what we stand for."
LUAR Went Underground at Club Drag
LUAR's FW25 show, "EL PATO," was one of NYFW's most striking spectacles -- unapologetic and full of attitude. Designed by Raul Lopez, the collection embraced '80s glamour with a nod to underground club drag, blending high fashion with raw and expressive energy.
The runway was graced by models like Paloma Elsesser and Puerto Rican supermodel Joan Smalls, while Lisa Rinna also made an appearance, reinforcing the show's strong, fearless spirit. Pieces mixed structured tailoring with theatrical textures. Faux fur clashed beautifully with sleek black leather, while feathers added movement and drama. Sharp, almost severe silhouettes -- bodysuits, razor-sharp blazers and sculpted coats, commanded attention, all within a moody, monochromatic palette of deep blacks and soft greys. With "EL PATO," Lopez delivered a statement celebrating identity, fluidity and the power of self-expression.
thom browne's Presentation of "Birds of Fantasy"
thom browne was one of the closing shows this season of NYFW, transforming NYC's lauded art center The Shed into an immersive experience. Attended by the likes of Adrien Brody, Cara Delevingne, King Princess, Lola Tung, Queen Latifah and Lucky Blue Smith, the showcase featured what was probably one of the most impressive and eclectic guest lists ever. Transforming thom browne's signature preppy plaids through eccentric beauty looks, clashing colors and vibrant accessories, this season took inspiration from the art of ornithology, surrounding attendees with 2000 origami paper birds.
Heritage tweeds woven in England stole the show, interspersed with shrunken argyle knits, collegiate-inspired jackets and crystal-clad trompe l'oeil dresses. Attempting to recreate "birds of fantasy," the collection favored bird-inspired detailing like elongated silhouettes, feathered accents and exaggerated petticoats.