Biomimetic Skincare Is the Next-Gen Trend That's Taking Over the Beauty Industry
Kaitlyn McLintock Thu, 09 Nov 2023 Who What WearAccording to board-certified dermatologist and founder of Facet Dermatology Geeta Yadav, MD, the definition of biomimetic is actually quite simple. "Biomimetic means that the function of something mimics that of the body's natural processes," she says. "By using ingredients that are similar to those produced by your skin, biomimetic skincare helps your skin function at its best—your skin 'recognizes' them and helps produce more of them naturally."
Brendan Camp, MD, FAAD, a double-board-certified dermatologist, phrases it similarly, saying, "Biomimetic skincare refers to products that use ingredients that simulate, or mimic, naturally occurring compounds in the skin to deliver safe, effective results."
While the term hints at something ultra modern and high-tech, you might be surprised to know that biomimetic skincare has actually been around for centuries; it just wasn't referred to by that name. "Biomimetic skincare really hit the market about a decade ago under that term, but people have been using biomimetic ingredients for centuries, particularly as part of traditional remedies," Yadav says. "For example, jojoba oil is considered a biomimetic ingredient, as it functions similarly to our natural sebum; it has long been used by Native Americans to support wound healing."
The idea is that if your body recognizes a skincare ingredient as something it created itself, it allows it to penetrate deeper into the skin and work more effectively than a non-biomimetic ingredient. At least, that's what skincare brands claim. But what do the derms think? There's some complexity to consider.
Take it from Yadav, who says, "The definition of traditional skincare is pretty subjective, and many ingredients that we'd place into that category also fall into the biomimetic category, such as ceramides and hyaluronic acid—ingredients that our bodies naturally produce."
In other words, biomimetic is a vague term at best. Furthermore, it can't account for some very important and widely used ingredients that treat and protect our skin—the most important being sunscreen. "There are some ingredients, like chemical exfoliants and sunscreen, that you can't just replace or get rid of entirely, but otherwise, I think it's a great idea to try biomimetic skincare if other products aren't working for you," Yadav says. "Those with very sensitive or reactive skin may respond best to biomimetic skincare, as it's not trying to 'fight' their skin but work with it."
Camp agrees, saying that biomimetic skincare is certainly effective, but there are other factors to consider. "Much of what makes a skincare product effective or not is the consistency of use," he says. Still, he notes that "the regular use of products that contain biomimetic ingredients may give your skin a boost in its health and appearance."
There are a wide range of skincare ingredients that can be labeled biomimetic. Some are easily recognizable. "Hyaluronic acid is a sugar molecule that naturally exists in the skin," Camp says. "It attracts and retains water molecules to improve skin hydration. Ceramides are another biomimetic ingredient. Ceramides are lipids in the stratum corneum that trap in moisture and maintain the integrity of the skin barrier."
Other biomimetic ingredients include peptides and niacinamide. Although, you won't always see biomimetic ingredients labeled as such. "There are plenty of ingredients that we've been using for a long time that fall into that category," Yadav says. "Biomimetic is just a buzzy marketing term that encapsulates these ingredients and others into an advanced- and elite-sounding category."
Don't be surprised if you see the term more and more. Skincare brands seem to be capitalizing on the trend by releasing "biomimetic" products that contain these buzzy ingredients. Both dermatologists have theories as to why it's trending right now. "Biomimetic skincare is trending because of an increased awareness and education among consumers about their own skin's biology and desire for products that are safe and effective," Camp says.
For Yadav, it's more about a streamlined approach to skincare. "I think it relates to how trends in skincare are moving toward simplicity," she says. "After several years of following 10+-step regimens, we're returning to pared-down regimens with products that offer the maximal benefit with minimal amounts of effort. Using ingredients that our skin recognizes and can use easily perfectly falls into that trend."